Time Out started in 1968 as a magazine in London to expand and share cultural and culinary events in 358 cities across 58 countries around the world. In 2014, they expanded into a specially curated culture and food court in Lisbon, Portugal. One opened up in Boston in 2019, along with four other cities in North America, to great success. Recently, I went to grab a quick meal there.
Cusser’s Roast Beef and Seafood started out downstairs as a simple take out window with a small eating area. It is below the upscale Back Bay restaurant Mooncusser Fish House, by Chef and Owner Carolyn Johnson, who has over 20 years of culinary experience at famed, top-notch restaurants in New England. Her past positions take her to places ranging from James Beard’s award winning Arrows, formerly Harvard Square’s Rialto, to her own widely lauded 80 Thoreau which serves New American cuisine. The numerous roast beef and seafood shacks dotting the North Shore inspired her open Cusser’s Roast Beef and Seafood.
After some consideration, we got the Hot Lobster Roll, which is popular in Connecticut, poached in a beurre rouge (butter red wine). The warm, buttery, golden-brown hot dog potato flour bun was delightful, and a lovely backdrop for the luscious four ounces of freshly caught New England lobster. The lobster filling was simmered over low heat in butter, red wine, shallots and herbs. Though a bit messy to eat, the lobster’s sweetness was enhanced by its flavorings. It was gone too quickly.
The iconic North Shore’s “Roast Beef Three Ways” is served up Chef Carolyn’s way with an elevated twist called the “Cusser’s 3 way” for $11, and served with rare Wagyu roast beef, a grilled onion roll, their own barbecue sauce (in place of the original James River BBQ Sauce) and mayo. Their version of the onion roll is a hybrid of brioche and halloush breads topped with sesame and nigella seeds, and a sprinkling of caramelized onions. The thinly sliced wagyu roast beef is rubbed with a salt rub containing coriander, black pepper and bay leaves, then left overnight before being roasted to the perfect rare pinkness. Each bite has the meat coupled with the tangy house-made sauce, mayo and jack cheese in place of the usual American cheese. This version is a delicious upgrade of a legendary North Shore favorite.
I could not resist getting the lobster bisque, priced at $7, with our order. Each steaming spoonful was silky smooth and creamy, with lovely hints of lobster flavor in the broth. Prices here are a bit steeper than a typical shack, but the quality and taste more than makes up for that difference.
For over seven years, award winning Union Square Donuts, with multiple locations in the Boston area, have been serving up stellar donuts. Luckily for us, they have a location at Time Out Market. For dessert, we shared their maple bacon, $4.25, and seasonal spiked eggnog, $3.75, donuts. These donuts are made by hand rather than machine, with a buttery brioche dough creating a lovely, fluffy inside, and a nice, slightly tougher exterior. Each donut is topped with quality ingredients. Real maple syrup and wonderfully smoky bacon slices make the maple bacon donut a favorite, combining both savory and sweet. The spiked eggnog donut was not overly creamy, and had a light sweetness that was enjoyable. You could taste the made-from-scratch quality in every bite.
Next time you want to have a quick meal and do not mind a bit of well-earned splurging, head to Time Out Market, and experience their wonderful curation of foods with many popular establishments around the city.
