Earlier this year, Clouds and Spirits opened up in the former Cuchi Cuchi space near Central Square. Initially “Clouds” was supposed to have rotating chefs, but that concept changed to have only executive chef and co-owner Katie Cheung in the helm. Chef Katie Cheung brings her extensive experience to the kitchen, her skills honed by working at Radius, Menton, Oishii and Kamakura to create a seasonal menu based on New American and Asian cuisine with touches that honor her Korean roots. The “Spirits” is handled by the co-owner and beverage director Matthew Gander to reflect the “fleeting nature of the concepts.”
Sunlight poured into the intimate space through an open window. The dining area reflects modern rustic styles with warm-toned wood, and the bar directly off to the right. We started off with steak tartare, priced at $22, with pear, sesame, gochujang (Korean spicy red paste) and crispy brown rice chips. The steak was high quality and very fresh. The pear added a lovely crispy texture and lent a sweetness balanced, not overpowered, by the gochujang. The tartare piled atop the light and crispy brown chips made for a wonderful mixture of textures and flavors in each bite.
From the bar we ordered the Peach Dreams cocktail for $15, made with Haku Vodka, Yellow Chartreuse (mellow version of the more herbal Green Chartreuse), Peach Puree, Ginger Simple, Lemon Juice, Avissi (Italian Prosecco-sparkling wine), and Sparkling Rose. It was a lovely, slightly sweet, refreshing cocktail for a warm autumn night.
Next out was the Butter Rice Ssam, priced at $26, and served with kim (Korean toasted and salted seaweed) made with wild sesame, king crab and preserved lemon. Ssam, translating to “wrap”, means diners must wrap their butter fried rice with the kim before eating it. The result is an explosion of rich umami flavor, coming to life with the crab and crispy kim in each bite.
With house made milk bread, the shrimp toast, priced at $12, with finely ground shrimp and bottarga (Gray Sea Mullet roe from Italy), possessed a slightly salty flavor that was mellowed by the accompanying dipping sauce. It was a lovely rendition of a classic Hong Kong appetizer without being too greasy.
We finished our dinner with the house made Spaghetti for $24. Made with kimchi butter, it came out with a generous topping of grated parmesan cheese atop spaghetti coated in a rose colored sauce. This dish was surprisingly light, but still rich in addictive flavor thanks to the combination of fermented cabbage and butter.
Our server, Celia, was attentive, friendly and well-versed in the menu. Since the restaurant serves its dishes tapas-style, the portions are on the smaller side compared to their prices. Next time you want to splurge, and try some thoughtful and creative dishes marrying both Eastern and Western flavors, go give Clouds and Spirits a spin.
Clouds and Spirits
795 Main St
Cambridge,MA 02139
617-945-1158
