Generations of cooks, prior to 1960, cooked with lard, which is basically pork fat that has been rendered down to a liquid. It used to be a common ingredient in many households until it was demonized, labeled as unhealthy. Nowadays, it is starting to make a comeback, albeit slowly and more education is still necessary. Science has helped to rehabilitate lard in the United States, having shown that lard contains less saturated fat than butter, and thus, when used in moderation, is not as unhealthy as many think, and may be better than butter. Lard also has long been prized by bakers, as it possesses components which produce a far flakier pie crust than other fats.
Various cultures around the world still embrace lard in their cooking. In 2018, the global lard market revenue was $15.7 billion, an increase of 2.9% from the year prior, with 40% of that consumption occuring in China. The significant percentage shows how important lard is in Chinese cooking, especially when up against Germany, the second-highest consumer, with their slice of the share only accounting for 10%. Americans are still very low on the lard consumption scale despite newer information, still holding preconceptions about it being harmful.
The alleged unhealthiness of fat is also a reason why pigs in the U.S. were raised to be leaner, which became the new industry standard. To combat health concerns, the pork industry adopted the claim that pork was “the other white meat”, more akin to chicken than beef, and thus healthier. However, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) actually defines pork as a red meat, like beef, lamb and goat. Leaner pigs also tend to be less flavorful, which led some farmers to start raising heritage breeds, fattier pigs, which possessed more flavor.
One such breed is the Mangalitsa, the “Wagyu beef” of the pork world. When looking at a cut of finely marbled Mangalitsa pork, with its rich redness, it is understood why pork is a red meat. The Mangalitsa, whose name quite literally means “hog with a lot of lard,” originated in the Austro-Hungarian empire during the first half of the 19th century, and is sometimes known as the curly haired pig due to its unique coat.
Despite its initial popularity, the Mangalitsa pig nearly became extinct during the 1990s, with only a couple hundred remaining until a Hungarian geneticist, Peter Toth, worked hard to convince a number of farmers to raise them for their delicious meat and fat. The Mangalitsa population has since rebounded, and there are now around 50,000 of these pigs in the world.
The Mangalitsa is one of the fattiest breeds of pig, with a typical body fat rate of 65% to 70%, while the average pig has only 16% to 20%. The difference is remarkable, and all that fat means that Mangalitsa pork is highly marbled, like a good steak, with much more flavor than a leaner pig breed. Mangalitsa fat is also high in omega-3 fatty acids, like those found in fish and various health supplements, and natural antioxidants.
I recently visited Top O’ Hill Farm, located in Springfield, Vermont, and received a tour from its owner, the passionate Betsy Lirakis, who started raising Mangalitsa pigs about ten years ago. The pigs have pleasant temperaments, are generally easy to raise, and are relatively self-sufficient animals. They also have plenty of room to roam around and were quick to come running when they saw people. Betsy sells a wide variety of Mangalitsa cuts and products, from sausages to country ribs, bacon to tenderloin, and ground pork to kielbasa. A 150 pound Mangalitsa will yield about 60 pounds of meat, with ham being the dominant product at around 16% of the total. It will also yield about 15 pounds of lard.
It is not easy work though, and the pigs are raised for twice the amount of time as factory farmed pigs at 14 to 15 months. It is more of an artisan operation, and has made Betsy into a Mangalitsa pig expert. She voiced no complaints about the hard work, simply being proud of her animals.
I walked away with a haul of Mangalitsa products, including a large chunk of Mangalitsa leaf lard. I was intrigued and impressed by the shoulder bacon, also known as cottage bacon, which was meatier than its typical counterpart cut from the belly. The fat in the cuts was silky smooth, and made this a wonderful alternative, thick-cut bacon. The sweet Italian pork sausage was delicious, being juicy and tender, with a tasty melange of spices. They can be enjoyed as-is, although they would also go well in a pasta sauce or on the grill with your favorite BBQ sauce. I also enjoyed a Mangalitsa pork tenderloin, which was bursting with flavor. Certainly much better than the usual pork tenderloin you find at the grocery store.
It is always a worthwhile effort to support local farms, like Top O’ Hill, with high quality food and shorter farm-to-table periods for fresh products. Do not fear the fat! Do not fear the lard! The Mangalitsa possesses so much flavor and, once you taste it, you will realize what you have been missing. It might be more expensive than factory farm pork, but the quality and taste are undeniable, being well worth the added cost.
