April 26, 2024 | Vol. 53, Issue 8

The only bilingual Chinese-English Newspaper in New England

Việt Citron: Phở, Bánh Mi & More

They use the seasonal dishes to introduce customers to unique Vietnamese regional dishes. (Photo courtesy of Richard Auffrey.)

“We opened Viet Citron because we love cooking for the adventurous and savvy foodies in this community.”–Trân Ngọc Lee

At the beginning of the year, a short time before the pandemic began, Việt Citron, a Vietnamese restaurant on Middlesex Turnpike in Burlington, opened. They were closed for a few months and recently reopened, under restrictions due to the pandemic. Since the reopening, I’ve been dining there at least once a week, enjoying its fresh, delicious Vietnamese cuisine.

The small restaurant is owned by a husband and wife team, Howard Lee and Trân Ngọc Lee, who want to being authentic Vietnamese food to the area, choosing to offer a small, selection of dishes, made from scratch and using many local ingredients. Currently, they’re open for lunch and dinner, offering take-out, delivery and limited outside dining.

The menu is intentionally small, with regular items including Bánh Mi and Phở, as well as Seasonal Specials, which change regularly. Trân Ngọc Lee told me that many of these dishes were items she enjoyed as a child in Vietnam. She also stated that they use the seasonal dishes to introduce customers to unique Vietnamese regional dishes that are not commonly found in typical Vietnamese restaurants.

They also offer several Pound/Bulk Order products, great if you are having a party. For example, I’ve taken a pound of their Salt Roasted Crispy Pork Belly ($16.95), to a grilling party and everyone loved it, quickly devouring the delectable pork.

The Phở broth was complex and flavorful, with tender pieces of chicken. (Photo courtesy of Richard Auffrey.)

With cooler weather on its way, a great choice would be their Phở ($13-$16), that iconic Vietnamese soup. Currently, they serve four types of Beef Phở, though I’ve previously enjoyed their Chicken Phở. It was an aromatic dish, the smells delighting you even before you took a taste. The Phở broth was complex and flavorful, with tender pieces of chicken, and each spoonful was pure hedonistic pleasure. A perfect dish to warm the belly.

Their Bánh Mi is made with an artisan Vietnamese baguette, pickles, jalapeños,
cilantro, signature aioli, garlic soy reduction, and you get a choice of a protein. (Photo courtesy of Richard Auffrey.)

Their Bánh Mi ($12) is made with an artisan Vietnamese baguette, pickles, jalapeños, cilantro, signature aioli, garlic soy reduction, and you get a choice of a protein, including lemongrass sirloin, chicken, grilled prawns, crispy pork belly, or crispy tofu puffs. The pork belly is my favorite. It’s tender and crispy, with crunchy bits and soft fat, and there was an ample amount within the sandwich. The freshness of the other ingredients, including the baguette, stood out and each bite beckoned you to have another.

The Bánh Hỏi Bowl ($13.50) comes with square rice noodles, lettuce, fresh herbs, cucumbers, pickles, scallion oil, ground peanuts, and a choice of protein, along with a side of chili garlic fish sauce. I chose the lemongrass sirloin, tender and aromatic beef, enhanced by the crunchy peanut bits and fish sauce. The square rice noodles are little light packages of noodles, and can easily be dunked in the sauce.

Mama Tran’s Chả Giò ($7) are crispy fried egg rolls wrapped with ground pork & shrimp and seasonal vegetables, and accompanied by a chili fish sauce dip. The wrappers are made from rice paper and are thin and light, with a pleasant crunch. The interior is tasty, with a nice blend of meat, seafood and veggies, that works harmoniously together. The sauce has a mild heat which compliments the egg rolls.

The Summer Rolls ($6.50) are made from fresh rice paper rolls wrapped with pork,
shrimp, herbs, lettuce, and vermicelli, and come with a peanut sauce dip. (Photo courtesy of Richard Auffrey.)

The Summer Rolls ($6.50) are made from fresh rice paper rolls wrapped with pork, shrimp, herbs, lettuce, and vermicelli, and come with a peanut sauce dip. Instead of the pork and shrimp, you could select tofu or grilled sirloin. The translucent wrappers show off the plump shrimp inside. Again, the summer roll has a delicious blend of flavors with an emphasis on freshness.

One of their most recent seasonal specials was the Chili Lemongrass Pork Ribs ($15.00). These were tender and meaty, with a delightful spicy dry rub and a slight bit of heat. Frankly, they are some of the best ribs I’ve tasted in some time. They are served atop rice and served with fresh veggies.

Another seasonal special was the Bò Lá Lốt, tender beef wrapped in the thin leaves and then grilled. They can be atop rice or noodles. This was another aromatic and delicious dish, and each beef roll was flavorful, moist and compelling. This dish is traditionally paired with Mam Nem Sauce, a pungent fermented fish sauce and mixed with chili, lemongrass, and pineapple. I loved the umami of this complex sauce, which had elements of both heat and sweetness.

In all of the dishes, there is a freshness to the ingredients which appealed to me. There is a nice depth of flavors and textures to each dish as well. I’m impressed with their cuisine, and their seasonal specials mean there is often something different on the menu to enjoy. With autumn almost here, I’m looking forward to enjoying more. Phở Việt Citron earns my hearty recommendation.

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