It’s the most popular spirit in the world, with over 11 billion liters produced, and nearly all made in a single country – China. Despite its great popularity, many Americans know little, if anything, about it, and it’s time to enlighten people about the wonders of this fascinating spirit known as Baijiu.
Commonly pronounced as “bye joe”, the term derives from two words, bai (‘transparent’) and jiu (‘alcoholic drink’), so baijiu roughly translates as ‘white liquor.’ I consider baijiu to be the Durian fruit of the spirits world. Durian, native to Southeast Asia, has a reputation for possessing one of the most foul odors you’ll ever smell, but plenty of people love the taste of Durian, considering it the king of fruits. Baijiu too has a reputation with many people of having a foul smell and taste, but the Chinese love it, and like Durian, baijiu isn’t properly appreciated outside of Asia.
I want to raise awareness of baijiu and now is an excellent time to do so. Since 2015, “World Baijiu Day” has been held annually on Aug. 9, a holiday intended to raise awareness of baijiu. This holiday was created and organized by Jim Boyce, who runs the blog Grape Wall of China (http://www.grapewallofchina.com). Baijiu events are held all over the world and have been previously held in Boston and Cambridge.
It’s difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of Baijiu, although many sources believe it was most likely invented about a 1000 years ago, though it didn’t receive the name baijiu until about 300 or so years ago. At its most basic, baijiu is a grain-based, distilled spirit, commonly produced from sorghum, though sometimes made from rice, corn, wheat, or other grains.
The production process is unique, with some similarities to the production of Japanese sake. One unusual element is that fermentation of baijiu usually occurs in 10-foot deep mud pits, some which are over 100 years old. Baijiu is aged in terra cotta urns, for about a year or two, though some are allowed to age for more than 80 years. These porous vessels are considered a way to purify the product, and don’t add any flavor or color to the spirit like oak barrels.
Today, there are about 10,000 different baijiu distilleries in China, producing an enormous diversity of the spirit from very cheap alcohol to super premium bottles which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. Baijiu is generally divided into four main categories, identified by aroma, which is also unique in the spirits’ industry. The four basic categories include mi xiang (rice aroma), qing xiang (light aroma), nong xiang (strong aroma), and jiang xiang (sauce aroma).
Many Americans who have tasted baijiu have sampled a sauce aroma baijiu, like the famed and expensive Kweichow Moutai, and its funky flavors don’t appeal to them. They don’t realize that not all baijiu possesses that strong aroma and that there is a great diversity of baijiu flavor profiles. There is likely a type of baijiu that will please their palate. That may be my most important advice: that you should explore the diversity of baijiu and don’t stereotype it based on a single taste.
Baijiu is a potent spirit, with an ABV of 50 percent plus, and is usually drunk at room temperature as a straight shot to the toast of “ganbei”. Baijiu is an important element of Chinese culture, something which is essentially consumed at every restaurant, at every holiday, for every special occasion, and with every business deal. It’s even entwined within Chinese diplomacy, and has been regularly served at official state dinners. U.S. Presidents, from Richard Nixon on, have been toasted with baijiu.
Traditionally the Chinese do not drink alcohol to get drunk. Alcohol is a significant aspect of their social interactions but moderation is expected, even when consuming a high alcohol spirit like baijiu. It helps that baijiu is nearly always consumed with food, helping to dilute the alcohol they drink. When you order baijiu, you always order it by the bottle rather than the glass as it’s a social drink, not something to drink on your own.
A theme of “World Baijiu Day” is to go “beyond ganbei”, and offer baijiu in different forms, from cocktails to foods. How about a baijiu slushie? Expand your palate and try something different and more unique. Seek out some baijiu at a local spirits shop and have your own tasting party.
You can also visit Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, in Cambridge, which will have baijiu specials, drinks and food, for “World Baijiu Day.” For example, in a prior year, they offered an enticing dish of Sizzling Baijiu Shrimp. They always have several tasty baijiu cocktails available, but create something new for the holiday.
Be adventurous, taste some baijiu, and celebrate “World Baijiu Day!”
For more information on Baijiu, you may read Richard Auffrey’s 11 article on it at: https://passionatefoodie.blogspot.com/2020/04/all-about-bostons-chinatown-chinese.html.
