The mid-autumn festival, also known as the August Moon festival, is often celebrated with mooncakes – round pastries with sweet or savory fillings that symbolize the full moon. But the tradition of hand crafting the delicacy is slowly changing, say some pastry chefs, who are keeping the tradition alive locally.
“The most difficult part of making mooncakes is cooking the syrup, which needs to be prepared a month in advance. It’s a very skillful process. Traditional hand-made mooncakes are the most delicious, but they’re gradually being replaced by machines,” pastry chef Li Min Chen, told Sampan.
Chen highlighted how crucial it was in his generation to have a craft, such as mooncake making, for earning a living. He fondly recalled his apprenticeship with master pastry chef Luo Kun, a dim sum champion in Guangzhou, China.
“Back then, you had to work hard and endure tough conditions before the master would teach you. Looking back, it was unforgettable, and the hard work paid off,” he said.
Chen also trained at Tai Sam Yuen Restaurant and Pan Xi Restaurant, two of the oldest and most traditional spots in Guangzhou, China. After moving to the United States, Chen and his family opened several specialty bakeries and restaurants. They started with Mei Sum Bakery in 1998, followed by Great Taste Bakery in 2009 with his cousin, Top Bread in 2014, Corner Cafe in 2016, and Taiwan Bakery in 2018. They now plan to open more bakeries in Cambridge or Allston. Chen is among a small number of pastry chefs keeping the tradition alive regionally.
“We have mooncakes available 365 days a year, we don’t need to advertise, everyone knows our mooncakes are the most authentic in Boston,” said the manager of Ho Yuen Bakery, which has been in business since 1974, and is the oldest bakery in Boston’s Chinatown. Tan’s maternal father’s family Liang had been operating bakeries in his hometown of Taishan, China and Hong Kong as far back as the 1930s. In the 1970s, the family came to the United States and worked at the Phoenix Bakery in New York’s Chinatown, which recently closed. The family also owned Hing Shing Pastry in Boston, but it also ceased operations last year.
Still, in Boston’s Chinatown you can find individual mooncakes at most bakeries for around $5-$8 each, with popular flavors like red bean paste and lotus paste. Many Chinese supermarkets also offer boxed mooncakes imported from Hong Kong or Guangdong China.
August Moon dates back over 3,000 years to the Shang Dynasty, originating from the ancient practice of moon worship. It gained widespread popularity during the Tang Dynasty as a time to give thanks for the harvest and pray for prosperity. Celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, it is a time for family reunions, giving thanks, and honoring the moon.
In Chinese mythology, Hou Yi is a legendary hero famed for his archery skills. According to the legend, there were once ten suns in the sky, causing the earth to overheat. Hou Yi used his bow to shoot down nine of the suns, leaving just one to provide light. As a reward, he was given an elixir of immortality.
Hou Yi was married to Chang’e, and instead of taking the elixir himself, he entrusted it to her. To keep it safe, Chang’e drank the elixir and was lifted to the moon, where she became the moon goddess, watching over the earth from afar. Their story is central to the mid-autumn festival, where people honor Chang’e by sharing mooncakes and admiring the full moon, reflecting on themes of love and togetherness. The legend of Chang’e has become integral to the festival, adding a rich layer of mythology to the celebration.
Families often gather for a meal under the full moon, which shines especially bright during this time. Lanterns are an essential part of the celebration, with colorful, intricate designs carried by both children and adults, enhancing the festive atmosphere.
“I remember the mid-autumn festival as always being a fun day. We made paper lanterns, had a sumptuous family dinner with sweet mooncakes, and went out to the park and lit up the lanterns at night,” said Kwai Ching Lo, chief financial officer of Asian American Civic Association, publisher of the Sampan.
“In my hometown of Hong Kong, the city often transforms into a colorful spectacle with different kinds of lanterns, some even playing music. Since moving to Boston, I will chat with my family on the other side of the world through WhatsApp or WeChat. The August Moon Festival is like Thanksgiving—what’s most important is gathering with family and praying to the moon for blessings.”
In the United States, the mid-autumn festival is celebrated with a blend of traditional and modern customs, especially in areas with strong Chinese communities. On Aug. 11, Boston’s Chinatown hosted its annual August Moon Festival, featuring traditional music, lion dances, and martial arts, drawing a large crowd. Last Sunday, Quincy held its 37th annual August Moon festival, which showcased performances, cultural displays, and a marketplace with vendors selling crafts and traditional foods. Both festivals in Boston and Quincy highlight the importance of preserving cultural traditions and uniting the community in celebrating this special occasion.
“The City of Malden is celebrating its 375th anniversary, but I’m not aware of any citywide mid-autumn festival here. Personally, I love going to Boston’s Chinatown to stroll through the streets, check out the vendors, enjoy the performances, and have a nice meal at a local restaurant.” Diana Jeong, co-founder of the Malden Asian Pacific American Coalition, Asian Spectrum, Inc., said.
