From restaurant owner to blackjack dealer, Mary Yick, like two other Chinatown restaurateurs, Ruby Foo and Anita Chue, was another pioneering woman in the Chinatown’s restaurant industry, owning the Tiki Hut restaurant on Tyler Street.
Mary Yick was born around 1934 and made her first appearance in a local newspaper, the Boston Herald, in November 1939. At age 5, she and two other young Chinese girls were photographed walking in a parade in Chinatown, part of the first rice bowl party for war relief work in China.
In October 1943, Mary, and three other Chinese children, were photographed as they distributed pedestrian safety booklets on the Traffic Day of Boston’s Smash the 7th Column Campaign, which was intended to reduce accidental death and injury.
When Mary was around 17 years old, in October 1951, she was once again shown in a photograph in a local newspaper, the Boston Traveler. Mary and eight other young Chinese women were pictured in their costumes as hostesses during the dedication ceremonies for the new headquarters and community building of the Chinese Merchants Association.
In her first known food connection, in the Boston Globe in April 1956, Mary was mentioned in an article discussing Otto Mammon who owned the Polynesian Village at Hotel Somerset. Otto stated, “Our Polynesian and Cantonese food suits the Boston palate.” In addition, the article published two recipes from the restaurant, including Lobster Pina and Flaming Polynesian Steak. In the accompanying photograph, Otto was shown teaching Mary Yick how to handle a lobster.
In July 1961, Lanai, Inc. was established and managed by Jean A. DiNapoli; it took over the location at 10 Tyler Street and established a restaurant. A year later, in November 1961, Mary Yick had become the manager of Lanai, Inc. and sought a liquor license for the new Tiki Hut at 10 Tyler Street.
One of the first major newspaper references to the Tiki Hut wasn’t until the Boston Traveler, Sept. 13, 1963, noting that the Tiki Hut was a cocktail lounge, specializing in creative Cantonese cuisine. It was also mentioned that Hostess Mary Yick was “one of Boston’s nicest people.” Another article, in the Boston Herald, March 2, 1965, recommended that you order a Tiki Tornado at the Tiki Hut.
An article in the Boston Globe, Feb. 13, 1970, noted how “The Tiki Hut is a favorite after-show stop for many theatrical people when they’re in town.” Many celebrities dined there and some of those regulars included David Merrick, Angela Lansbury, and Shakespearean actor Nicol Williamson. On the theatrical circuit, Mary Yick was affectionately known as “The Dragon Lady.”
Unfortunately, Mary and the Tiki Hut ran into a serious problem in mid-1971. The Boston Globe, June 2, 1971, noted that “Mary is the only remaining on-site female entrepreneur of a restaurant-lounge in Chinatown.” Mary was facing a possible ouster from her 10 Tyler Street location. The owner of the premises, the Lee On Dong Association, attempted to conduct an “auction in the Chinese tradition of her lease.” Fortunately, Mary was able to secure an injunction to halt the auction until the owners could come forward and justify themselves to the court.
In her petition, Mary stated there had been an “alleged violation of her civil rights on the basis of discrimination because of her sex.” She was “Alleging a concerted course of action against women business functionaries in the restaurant field.” Her petition also claimed that Anita Chue had been previously removed from her own restaurant by persons common to the group attempting to oust her. Finally, the petition noted that, “Traditionally, Chinese mores dictate that Chinese females are inferior to Chinese males, and that Chinese females should not be entrepreneurs or occupy any position other than that which calls for menial or household work.”
Mary and the Tiki Hut lasted only another year, though at least it seemed the lease ouster had been prevented, when in November 1972, she transferred the liquor license to Mai Lai Inc., managed by Kwok Man Yu, who would operate a restaurant at the same address.
The Boston Globe, Dec. 1, 1972, noted this loss in and referred to Mary Yick “of the lyrical voice and quick quips that (gently but plainly) put down amorous customers.” The article also stated, “Her departure ends, at least for the time, a tradition begun by the legendary Ruby Foo and later Anita Chue.” After taking several trips to various parts of the world, Mary moved to Las Vegas and became a blackjack dealer at Caesar’s Palace.
Once again, we have a Chinese woman who left a strong legacy in Chinatown. Like Ruby Foo and Anita Chue, Mary Yick was an intelligent, charming, and savvy business woman who became a success in the restaurant industry and introduced many people to the wonders of Chinese cuisine, especially Cantonese. Her restaurant career ended too shortly, potentially due to discrimination because she was a woman. A tragedy in its own right.
For more information on Mary Yick, you may read Richard Auffrey’s lengthier article on the life of MaryYick at: https://passionatefoodie.blogspot.com/2020/04/restaurants-in-bostons-chinatown-tale_13.html
