Let me continue the tale of the admirable Ruby Foo. Her restaurant in Chinatown opened around 1929 and the first advertisement I found for it was in the Boston Globe, July 2, 1935. The restaurant, known as Ruby Foo at The Den, offered “delicious Chinese Foods” and it was open until 4 a.m. It was said that Ruby Foo originally presented Cantonese food for the Chinese community, but eventually, the quality of her food enticed non-Chinese to dine there.
Ruby’s restaurant was so successful during the 1930s that she was approached to open a second location in New York City. Joe Pike and his wife Florence (who was from Boston) used to travel frequently and dined at numerous Chinese restaurants. They were impressed with what Ruby Foo had created, and proposed a partnership to her to open a similar restaurant in New York, using the same Cantonese recipes. This second location opened at 240 West 52nd Street, just off Broadway, in October 1936. This was probably the first Chinatown restaurant to open a second location outside of Massachusetts, and this occurred within only about seven years of the start of Ruby’s business.
In July 1939, it was noted that Ruby now offered a Chinese food delivery service, within a reasonable radius. This is one of first mentions of a Chinese restaurant in the Boston area offering delivery service, and it’s possible that she introduced this development to Boston’s Chinatown.
Ruby’s fame was mentioned in the Lowell Sun, Aug. 24, 1940, noting, “The only international chain of American-Chinese restaurants in the world is operated by Mrs. Ruby Foo, a diminutive Chinese from San Francisco. She has restaurants in New York, Boston, London, and, of course, at the New York World’s Fair.” The article also mentioned one of Ruby’s hobbies, “During her off hours Mrs. Foo goes in for solo flying.” So, not only did she run a restaurant empire and raise three children, but she also learned how to fly a plane.
It’s also interesting to know that up through the 1940s, her restaurant never had a liquor license, yet still did great business, appealing to many celebrities. In the Boston Globe, Sept. 10, 1945, it was stated that after the nightclubs in Boston closed at 1a.m., theatrical workers and entertainers would go to Ruby Foo’s. She was beloved in the entertainment industry, and all across the country. They were the ones who helped to spread the popularity of her restaurant. Ruby was described as “jolly, good-natured, with laughing almond eyes and lips that smile easily.”
In 1948, Florence Pike opened the first Chinese canning factory in the U.S. producing canned Ruby Foo Oriental food products. Chefs from Ruby Foo’s tested and experimented on creating excellent Chinese foods that could be canned. Great care was taken in the preparation of all of these foods, including using quality ingredients. Some of the cans included Chicken Chow Mein, Vegetable Chow Mein, Mushroom Egg Drop Soup and Noodles.
Though the Ruby Foo food empire was going very well, it would suffer a terrible tragedy. Ruby Foo passed away suddenly at home on March 16, 1950 from a heart attack. She had recently spent five months in a hospital for treatment of her heart condition. A life cut far too short. According to the Boston Globe, March 16, 1950, Ruby’s alleged last words to her nurse were, “Call me a 1:30 (a.m.). I want to call the restaurant.” That is certainly dedication to her passion.
Despite Ruby’s passing, her restaurant continued to operate under the management of two of her children, Doris Shong and Earl Shong. During the 1950s, Ruby Foo’s Den remained immensely popular, especially with celebrities, from comedians to sports figures. And the newspapers were very complimentary to how Doris and Earl were handling the restaurant. However, the restaurant finally closed in July 1957.
Ruby Foo is commemorated in Boston as part of The Boston Women’s Heritage Trail. In addition, back in the summer of 2019, the Chinese Historical Society of New England worked with the Boston City Archaeology Program on the first archaeological dig in Chinatown. They spent about three weeks, digging in a vacant lot, which once had been the home to Ruby Foo’s Den. The Hudson Street building was torn down in 1989. Unfortunately, once they had dug down about six-and-a-half feet, they hit the water table and had to cease their activities for safety reasons.
The story of Ruby Foo is a powerful tale of an intelligent, charismatic and savvy businesswoman who became a success in the restaurant industry, and introduced many people to the wonders of Chinese cuisine. Plus, she succeeded during difficult times, from the Great Depression to World War II. Who knows what she might have accomplished if she had only lived longer. Many kudos to the memory of Ruby Foo!
For more information on Ruby Foo, you may read Richard Auffrey’s lengthier article on the life of Ruby Foo at: https://passionatefoodie.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-first-restaurants-in-bostons_17.html.
